The Lake Como Edit: Where to Stay, What to See and How to Live Slowly by the Water

Understanding the lake: three branches, one centre

Lake Como is shaped like an inverted Y. The south-western branch runs to the city of Como, the south-eastern branch to Lecco, and the two meet at the Bellagio peninsula before the lake continues north towards the Alps.

For a first visit, the area where the branches meet is the most practical: Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and the Tremezzina villages face one another across the water and are linked by frequent ferries. The southern stretch near Cernobbio and Moltrasio is closer to Milan and home to several of the lake's grand hotels. The north is quieter, wilder and better suited to a return visit.

Where to stay: the villages

Bellagio. The best-known village, set on the tip of the peninsula, with stepped lanes, silk shops and lakeside promenades. Busy by day, beautiful in the evening once day visitors leave. Best for first visits and walking. Check dates and rates →

Varenna. Smaller and more compact on the eastern shore, with a lakeside walkway and a direct train link to Milan. Best for travellers arriving without a car. Check dates and rates →

Tremezzo and the Tremezzina. A string of villages on the western shore with views across to Bellagio, close to Villa Carlotta and Villa del Balbianello. Best for gardens, hotels with lake frontage and a calmer pace. Check dates and rates →

Menaggio. A lively, practical town with a good ferry connection and more everyday life. Best for value and longer stays. Check dates and rates →

Cernobbio and Moltrasio. The southern lake, around 30 to 40 minutes by car from the city of Como, known for grand villa hotels. Best for a hotel-led stay. Check dates and rates →

Four hotels that define Lake Como hospitality

Lake Como has many beautiful places to sleep. These four represent distinct ideas of what a lake hotel can be. Rates vary greatly by season; booking early for May, June and September is advisable.

Passalacqua, Moltrasio

An 18th-century villa reopened as an intimate hotel by the family behind Grand Hotel Tremezzo, with terraced gardens descending to the water. The scale is residential rather than grand: few rooms, frescoed interiors and a sense of staying in a private house.

Best for: a special occasion, privacy and gardens. Check dates and rates →

Villa d'Este, Cernobbio

A Renaissance-era residence that has operated as a hotel since the late 19th century, set in an extensive historic park. It is the lake's classic grand hotel, formal and traditional, with a floating pool on the water.

Best for: heritage, old-world service and long lunches. Check dates and rates →

Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Tremezzo

An Art Nouveau landmark that opened in the early 1900s, facing Bellagio across the central lake, with a pool that appears to float on the water. Lively, glamorous and well placed for Villa Carlotta, which sits a short walk away.

Best for: classic glamour and a central base. Check dates and rates →

Il Sereno, Torno

A contemporary hotel on the eastern shore of the Como branch, with interiors by the designer Patricia Urquiola and vertical gardens by Patrick Blanc. Every suite faces the lake. A considered alternative for travellers who prefer clean lines to frescoes.

Best for: design, quiet and modern comfort. Check dates and rates →

The lake rewards those who stay long enough to stop counting villages.

The villas and gardens worth seeing

Villa del Balbianello, Lenno. Set on a wooded promontory and managed by FAI, the Italian National Trust, it is the most photographed villa on the lake, with terraced gardens and a loggia open to the water. Check opening days and book ahead; it is best reached by boat or a footpath from Lenno.

Villa Carlotta, Tremezzo. A villa and museum with one of the lake's most important botanical gardens. Spring brings its well-known displays of azaleas and rhododendrons.

Villa Melzi, Bellagio. Lakeside gardens in the English landscape style, a quieter walk only minutes from the centre of Bellagio. Gardens typically open in spring through autumn.

The Beauty Edit tip: visit gardens first thing in the morning, when tour groups have not yet arrived and the light across the water is softest.

On the water: getting between the villages

The lake is best understood from the water. Public ferries operated by Navigazione Laghi connect the main villages, with the shortest crossings in the central lake taking around 15 minutes. Day passes are available and timetables change by season, so check them before planning dinner on the opposite shore.

For a single, memorable experience, book a private boat with a driver for an hour or two at sunset. Classic varnished wooden motorboats are part of the lake's identity and can be hired from most central villages.

Driving is possible but the lakeside roads are narrow and parking in villages is limited in high season. Many visitors leave the car behind entirely.

Tours and experiences worth booking

A few experiences are easier booked ahead, particularly from May to September, when boats and guided visits fill quickly.

A private sunset boat tour. One or two hours on a classic wooden motorboat from Bellagio, Varenna or Tremezzo, ideally timed for the last light. See boat tours and stays →

Villa del Balbianello and Villa Carlotta by boat. Guided or self-led itineraries combining the two great western-shore villas with ferry or private boat transfers. See villa tours nearby →

A day trip from Milan. For those short on time, organised day trips combine train or coach from Milan with a boat crossing and a stop in Bellagio. See day trips and stays →

Cooking classes and food tours. Lessons in lake recipes, risotto and fresh pasta, often hosted in villages above the water. See experiences nearby →

Availability, inclusions and prices are set by each provider; check details before booking.

Where and how to eat

Lake cooking is Lombard rather than coastal. Look for risotto with perch fillets (risotto con pesce persico), missoltini, the lake's traditional dried shad, polenta in cooler months and local cheeses from the surrounding valleys.

The best meals are rarely in the busiest squares. Walk a few streets uphill, take a ferry to a smaller village for lunch or reserve a terrace table for sunset. Dinner here is usually unhurried; reservations are wise in high season.

What to pack for Lake Como

Lake Como is elegant but not formal by day, and evenings can be cooler than visitors expect, especially on the water and outside summer.

• Linen shirts and relaxed trousers for warm days.
• A light cashmere or merino knit for evenings and boat rides.
• Comfortable flat shoes, such as loafers or espadrilles; village lanes are steep and cobbled.
• A simple dress for dinner at a hotel terrace.
• Sunglasses, a scarf for the boat and a light rain layer in spring and autumn.

When to visit

April to June brings gardens in bloom and pleasant temperatures. July and August are warm and busy, with the highest hotel rates. September and early October offer softer light and calmer villages. Many hotels close from November to March, so winter visits need more planning.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the best place to stay on Lake Como? For a first visit, the central lake: Bellagio for walking, Varenna for train access, Tremezzo for gardens and grand hotels, Menaggio for value.

How many days do you need at Lake Como? Three to four nights allow time for two villas, a boat trip and slow evenings without rushing.

How do you get to Lake Como from Milan? Trains run from Milan to Como and to Varenna in about an hour. From the central lake, ferries connect the villages.

Do you need a car at Lake Como? No. Ferries link the main villages, and parking is limited in high season.

What is the best month to visit Lake Como? May and September balance good weather, open gardens and fewer crowds than midsummer.